Ms. Lindsay Martin
Wake County

“I’m so thankful to the Borchardt Fund for investing in education and making this program possible so that I can bring back so many stories and shared perspectives to my students. 

As has happened rather often on this program, I woke up this morning over an hour before I had planned. Rather than waste an hour sitting in the hotel, I decided to get up and go for a short walk with my roommate to stretch our legs and see a little more of Busan and its people. As I walked along the waterway, there were many people out exercising along with us. Many Koreans, mostly over the age of 50, were out walking or making use of the many public exercise equipment machines along the walking path. Many also took the time to use the railings to stretch out either before or after their exercise! We also watched and waited with a group of people who stood at a completely empty street for a full three minutes before crossing the street when the crosswalk sign finally turned green.

I also continued to see in new ways what a few of us had discussed yesterday- that Busan is such a colorful city when compared to Seoul! The vibrant colors were evident not just in the beautiful buildings in Gamcheon, but also in people’s clothing and in the landscape and architecture present in the city. By contrast, in Seoul we have all seen more neutral colors- lots of blacks, white, and gray. 

After breakfast and checking out of our hotel, we got to the train station much more quickly than the ride took us on Friday- apparently, like in the U.S., Friday afternoon rush hour is much worse than a Sunday morning drive in Korea as well! As we had over an hour to explore the station area before boarding our train, I wandered outside and got to see part of Busan’s port in action! There were passenger ships and cargo ships lining the port near the massive cranes. It makes me think about where all the goods being shipped out of here are coming from and where they are going to! My Human Geography brain is also analyzing the significance of the area as a break-of-bulk point… 

After a ride on the bullet train back to Seoul (where Jamie recorded a speed of 140mph at one point!), we grabbed our luggage and settled it into our new rooms back at the hotel before setting off. I guided a group of 6 of us via the subway to the War Memorial and Museum of Korea. The building was much more stately and grand than I expected from the outside, and I was moved by so many of the art pieces outside that displayed the complexity of the war through juxtaposed emotions, beliefs, and understandings. 

Inside the museum, we first learned about some of Korea’s ancient history (like the three Kingdoms era) and then moved into rooms discussing the details of the Korean War. I thought it was interesting to see how many important sites important to the ancient Korean Dynasties and kingdoms are no longer considered to be in the same country we are in now, since the countries have split. We also noted that there were a number of South Korean soldiers visiting the museum on their own while we were there. Meredith pointed out that our day trip to the DMZ would actually be taking place on 6/25, the anniversary of North Korea’s invasion of South Korea and the beginning of the war.

I had so many questions as we browsed the exhibits, such as what the public perception of the Korean people and government is today towards the U.S.’ role in the war. The language and text throughout the museum expressed gratitude for the U.S.’ aid during the war, but I also noticed parts of the story that were left out. There was a panel discussing atrocities committed by the North Koreans, but nothing about the impact of the violence faced by civilians in North Korea resulting from U.S. and South Korean attacks. I wondered where the funding for the museum and memorial came from- was it entirely government funded? Did private donors have a say? Did the U.S. play any role in the funding or creation of this museum? 

I also noticed that the intentional language used on many panels and videos highlighted the enemy of the Korean people during the war was not the North Korean people, but either the communist North Korean government or the Soviet Union and Chinese leadership that encouraged and supported the war. The Korean people’s hopes for unification were present in much of the artwork outside of the museum as well, such as the Clock Tower of Peace. This work particularly moved me, as the statue itself holds two clocks- one with the current time and one with the time that North Korea invaded and the Korean War began. Next to this piece, though, is another clock, which remains un-set but will be set to the time and date that Korea will be unified in the future, and replaced in the statue after that reunification. 

After leaving the museum and navigating the subway with only two minor mishaps or misdirections, we arrived at the Ikseon-dong Hanok village where we had a wonderful dinner of tteok-bokki and wandered the beautiful streets of traditional Korean housing. We ended the night by walking down a beautiful stream-lined path and with ice cream before bed!”

Mr. Jade Dickerson
Chapel Hill Carrboro City Schools

Sunday, June 23 was technically our first Sunday morning in South Korea.We had just completed one whole week in our program and we were about to head back to Seoul for the remainder of the trip. I awoke to a cloudy day in the coastal city of Busan. The previous day had seen tons of rain, so some of our plans had been altered. I was already making mental notes of what I wanted to see and accomplish the next time I found myself in this dynamic city. At the same time, I was beginning to really feel the absence of my family. The addition of unanticipated downtime made those feelings more acute. 

Breakfast at our Avani Hotel was immaculate. There was something there for everyone, yet I enjoyed partaking in what the local culture tends to eat. My plate never looked like something I would eat at home. Our tables were bussed by robots too. Ever thinking about my boys back home, I took a video and sent it to them. They reminded me of how lucky I was to be experiencing these new sensations.

Soon after breakfast ended, we were off again to the train station on our return trip. There was a bit of time for us to get a coffee and grab lunch for the train. As I did frequently, I walked around reading the signs while trying to decide what I wanted to eat. I had started learning Hangul several months prior to the program, so I was adept at understanding what sounds are produced, though I could not translate them. To my delight, I came up to a florist that I was finally able to read without any aid: Flower Stone. It was a simple two word sign, but I felt like my efforts were paying off in a small way. Close by I saw several Korean travelers lining up at a cafe buying food. I did not know what I might be getting, but I figured if that is what the locals liked that is what I would eat too. I ended up buying several varieties of delicious fish cakes. 

The train ride back was very pleasant. I had the opportunity to sit beside a colleague who shared intimate details of her life as a Korean-American and the story of her mother who had been adopted after the war. We could not talk too much however because in Korean culture it is polite to maintain as much quiet as possible in public spaces. I was very proud of my group for strictly adhering to this custom. In other situations, I struggled with what I perceived as our lack of awareness. I had noted on several occasions just how assertive and extroverted we were collectively. USAmericans tend to comfortably command very quickly any space they enter. I do not know if it was that our Korean hosts were so honored to have us visit, or if they typically show exceptional deference, or if they were simply “saving face”, but they never seemed to be too put out. I would like to continue to explore both sides of the issue. 

Upon arriving back in Seoul, most of our group immediately left for an optional kimchi making lesson. I opted out because I had the unique opportunity to get together with my college roommate, who has lived in Seoul for almost fifteen years, and meet his incredible Korean wife. They treated me to even more culinary novelties as well as local beverages. In our time together, I realized just how much of a bubble we had been traveling in. To be clear, the experiences that were catered for us were enlightening and enriching, authentic in their own respect, but Jamie and Jungsoo took me deep into Korean cultural spaces and perceptions. I am deeply grateful for their generosity and as well as the generosity of the donors to the Borchardt Award for my experiences in South Korea.